Mel’s Kitchen Tip: Cocoa Powder 101
Confused by how Dutch-process cocoa ,“regular” or natural, and unsweetened cocoa powder differ? This Cocoa Powder 101 post has answers!
Welcome to Cocoa Powder 101! Confused by recipes that call for Dutch-process cocoa and wonder how on earth it is different from “regular” or natural, unsweetened cocoa powder? Never fear! I’m here to help unravel the mystery behind cocoa powder in plain terms.
Let’s get started. I’ve called in (er, quoted) a few experts to help us along since heaven knows, I don’t have a degree in cocoa powder philosophy.
There are two main types of cocoa powder called for in baking: 1) Dutch-process cocoa and 2) natural unsweetened cocoa. I’m guessing that if you are like me, far and away, most of you have natural, unsweetened cocoa powder residing in your pantry. Common brands are Hershey and Nestle, among others. Dutch-process is a bit more expensive than natural, unsweetened cocoa and is widely heralded in foodie circles as “the” cocoa powder to use if you want deep, dark chocolate flavor.
What is Dutch-process cocoa and how is it different than natural, unsweetened cocoa powder?
Both Dutch-process and natural cocoa are made from cocoa beans. The difference is that with Dutch-process cocoa, the cocoa beans are soaked in a low-acid solution (alkaline) before being dried and ground. Natural, unsweetened cocoa is made from cocoa beans that are roasted and then ground (no soaking required).
Because Dutch-process cocoa goes through the soaking process to lower the acidity, it a) results in a darker cocoa powder and b) mellows the flavor of the cocoa making it less harsh, and according to some cocoa connoisseurs, makes a stronger, definable chocolate flavor. For years, I was skeptical that Dutch-process cocoa could really make a difference in flavor, but when I finally tried it, I realized that true to the data, it really does have a less bitter chocolate taste than unsweetened cocoa powder (see below for my own taste-test results with cocoa brownies).
Can Dutch-process and natural, unsweetened cocoa be used interchangeably?
The main issue to bring up with substitutions in any recipe is that if you make changes of your own to a written/published recipe, the results can’t be guaranteed. Sure, it may turn out ok, but it may not. So baker beware.
As far as cocoas go, because Dutch-process has lower acidity, it is usually used in combination with baking powder in recipes, whereas, natural, unsweetened cocoa powder is usually used with baking soda (which is alkali and requires an acidic ingredient – like the natural cocoa powder – in a recipe to properly activate).
Having stated that, I also see many recipes out there that use cocoa powder without any leavening (think: fudgy brownies), in which case either cocoa powder could be used, based on preference (my preference is detailed below).
According to my favorite cooking and baking resource, Cook’s Illustrated, Dutch-process and natural, unsweetened cocoa are mostly interchangeable. They found this after doing a myriad of taste testing and test baking and concluded that because Dutch-process cocoa wins out over and over and over in taste tests, it is the only cocoa a home baker needs to keep on hand and they can sub it whenever natural, unsweetened cocoa is used (they didn’t notice a difference in their baked results based on the cocoa used, even with the leavening issue of baking soda and baking powder).
What’s my rule of thumb, you ask? Well, my opinion first and foremost is to: follow the recipe! There’s definitely no harm in that if you want the best results. However, in the interest of staying honest, I will admit that many, many times, I have subbed in natural, unsweetened cocoa for Dutch-process but not the other way around – and I’ve never had quirky results (except for perhaps a slight dip in chocolate flavor).
I haven’t fully converted to Cook’s Illustrated’s recommendation to only use Dutch-process cocoa for the simple reason that it tends to be more expensive than my beloved Hershey’s and which gets me to my next question (read on).
What cocoa powder(s) do I keep on hand?
Because Dutch-process cocoa is exorbitantly priced in my local grocery stores (we are talking break-the-bank prices), I never, ever buy it locally. (Update: i’ve since moved to an area that sells Dutch-process cocoa in bulk bins and it is very reasonably priced!). Which means if I’m plumb out and a recipe calls for it, I’ll swap in the natural, unsweetened cocoa, like I mentioned above. (Update: thanks to some bad results, I’ve stopped swapping out one-for-one with Dutch-process and natural, unsweetened cocoa – I highly recommend following the recipe if it states a particular kind of cocoa powder, understanding that any substitutions may alter the hopefully delicious end result).
However, when I’m on top of things, I order Dutch-process cocoa online, usually the Droste brand (came in second to Callebaut in Cook’s Illustrated taste testing) and usually from amazon.com (free shipping, baby). I always have the Hershey’s brand of natural, unsweetened cocoa in my pantry (because I can buy it in large cans at Sam’s Club and Costco).
Is it worth keeping Dutch-process cocoa on hand simply because “experts” believe it tastes better?
Good question! If you really, really enjoy putzing around with fine-tuned, impeccable baked goods, then yes, get yourself some Dutch-process cocoa ASAP. However, if you consider yourself a non-fussy home cook (and a good one, no less!), then natural, unsweetened cocoa powder will probably do the trick for you.
I used natural, unsweetened cocoa powder exclusively for years and years and was none the wiser…and let me tell you, I am a self-proclaimed food snob. Chocolate cupcakes and brownies made with my good ol’ Hershey’s tasted fantastic (and still do) to me and my taste buds. But when I did venture into Dutch-process cocoa waters a few years back, I have to admit that the chocolate flavor imparted in brownies, in particular, is deeper, darker and even more decadent than if using natural, unsweetened cocoa.
Case in point: I have a recipe for all-cocoa powder brownies (meaning, there isn’t any melted chocolate in the batter). The recipe is shockingly delicious (I’ll be posting soon!) and the fudgy texture reminds me of the boxed brownie mixes, which means my brownies-from-a-box-craving husband looooves them. Over the years, I’ve made them with either natural, unsweetened cocoa powder or Dutch-process, whatever I get the hankering for and they are delicious either way; however, I’ve never made them side-by-side with both cocoa powders for my own taste testing…until now.
The other day I made two batches – one using natural cocoa powder and the other using Dutch-process cocoa powder. The Dutch-process brownies naturally came out darker, which I had noticed when making them on their own before. While I have always been fine with the result of natural cocoa powder in these brownies, I have to admit that after tasting the brownies side-by-side, the natural cocoa powder didn’t stand a chance next to the Dutch-process cocoa powder. In fact, after taking a taste of the Dutch-process brownies, I could hardly stand the taste of the ones made with natural cocoa powder – they had a sharp, bitter taste where the Dutch-process brownies had a mellow, deep, dark flavor. As a dark chocolate lover, the Dutch-process brownies completely overwhelmed the natural cocoa powder brownies in chocolate flavor.
Basically, I affirm that Dutch-process cocoa really does have a more mellow, deeper chocolate flavor. And I’ll continue to use it exclusively in all cocoa-powder recipes like the brownie one I just referred to. But natural, unsweetened cocoa powder also has it’s place in the baking world, so I, for one, will continue to keep them both on hand and will probably start following Cook’s Illustrated recommendations and experiment using Dutch-process cocoa in more recipes.
I hope this helps sort out the difference between natural, unsweetened and Dutch-process cocoa powders! Feel free to leave any questions or your own cocoa powder experience in the comments.
92 Comments on “Mel’s Kitchen Tip: Cocoa Powder 101”
Thank you for explaining this in such deep detail. I had just asked my Mother what she thought the difference was the other day and she said she thought Dutch Process Cocoa Powder was sweeter? I didn’t quite buy that as it is supposed to be naturally unsweetened.
Rodelle Dutch Processed, 25 oz USD 7.50 at Costco. Works and tastes pretty good. Does go on sale once in a while. This is almost exactly like my Gram’s recipe. Only she put the salt in with the flour. Thanks!!
Do you know what the difference is between Dutch process cocoa powder and Hershey’s Special Dark chocolate cocoa powder?
From what I know, Hershey’s special dark is a Dutch-processed cocoa, but it’s darker in flavor and color than other varieties of Dutch-processed cocoa.
Thank you!!
Thanks for the details, and I thought I’d add my own experience. I make chocolate ice cream using the recipe from Ben & Jerry’s ice cream recipe book. Specifically, I use Jerry’s recipe. I’ve made it for years. Originally I used Droste’s dutch process, and it was so good that people licked their bowls. The last two times, I haven’t had dutch process on hand, so used Hershey’s Special Dark. It was good, but not as good. I’m about to try your Brownie Batter Truffles, and I will make a point of getting dutch process cocoa powder for them.
Thank You for all this wonderful info! I am baking a birthday cake for someone this weekend and your best ever chocolate cake sounds wonderful! Can I use the dutch cocoa? I’m still not clear on ‘finicky’ recipes. I am also planning on your amazing frosting, and will add the cocoa powder. Please clarify! I\m feeling a whole lot out of my comfort zone.
I always use natural unsweetened cocoa for that best chocolate cake recipe but I believe others have used dutch-process with good results.
Because Droste cocoa is higher in fat than Hershey’s, do I need to decrease the oil I use when using the cake recipe on the Hershey’s container when using Droste?
Thanks!
That’s a great question and I’m not totally sure, but my inclination would be to say not to mess with the other ingredients in the recipe.
In baking, how can you make cocoa powder brownie less bitter tasting? P.s. I’m trying not use any dairy, eggs or gluten either.
Thank you
Using Dutch-process cocoa may help – it is less bitter than natural cocoa.
Out of curiosity which brownies did your “box loving” husband prefer?
I ask because my family looooves box brownies and I’m trying to stay away from box mixes and make from scratch. So I’d love to hear your husband’s vote.
He likes the ones with the natural, unsweetened cocoa powder the best. 🙂
I always use the dutch-processed kind because my someone recommended it one time and I liked it. I never even knew the real difference until now. Where I live it is not hard to find and not at all expensive.
This was a very informative article, I have been using a “Triple Blend” of Natural, Dutch and Black Cocoa powder, and now I have a product called Coco Rouge. What’s that all about?
I have favorite vanilla cake recipe and i wanted to make a chocolate version. Can you please tell me how to add cocoa to the batter without getting dry? Thanks a lot
You’ll have to google or do some research since it’s not an easy conversion and I’m not familiar with what recipe you’ve been using.
Really helpful webpage, thanks!
Do you have any advice about subsitutions?
RE if I substitute natural cocoa in a recipe with the Hershey’s Specialized Cocoa? (it’s both dutch processed & natural cocoas)
The cake recipe uses the natural unsweetened cocoa and baking soda, and buttermilk. If I use the Hershey’s specialized coca, would I perhaps use half baking soda and half baking powder ? not sure about the buttermilk.
Suzabelle
Hi Suzabelle – it’s hard to say for all recipes especially since I’m not super familiar with the blend of dutch and natural coca you are using; you’d have to experiment a little bit. The baking soda works with the buttermilk (acidity) to create leavening so I’d probably keep that in and play around with the baking soda/baking powder equivalents. Good luck!
P.S. Since I have Callebaut (dutched), Droste (dutched) and Hershey’s (natural) in my cupboard, I think I’ll do a personal taste test with my next few recipes, just for fun and to see what my husband and I prefer, and to see if any of my recipes that call for natural cocoa powder with mostly baking soda are negatively affected by the dutched. I send all leftovers to his co-workers so no one will mind all the chocolate 🙂
This was soooooooooooooooo helpful! I’ve been researching this on a rampage since last night, ever since I saw the America’s Test Kitchen video on this and read their article, and your article (and taste test!) just very nicely summed up everything that I was reading and learning. You are truly helping us bakers!!! Just wanted to say thank-you 🙂
Mel,
Is there a way to reduce the bitter flavor that cocoa has when baking or making candies.
Thank
Marty
marty – Dutch process cocoa has a more mild, less bitter taste so that may help (but be sure to make the necessary adjustments as noted in the post with baking soda, etc. if subbing dutch-process in for natural, unsweetened).
Mel, I have brownie recipe calling for 2/3 c Dutch process cocoa and 1/2 tsp baking powder…but I only have natural cocoa available. Do I need to adjust to baking soda instead of powder because of that?
Karen – Since it’s not one of my recipes, I can’t be totally sure, but usually natural cocoa powder is used with baking soda (or many brownie recipes don’t use any leavening – just a lot of eggs). I hope that helps.
Those Dutch processed brownies LOOK like they taste better too. Thanks for inspiring me to pop over to Amazon and buy some.
I ordered some Guitarrd cocoa in bulk(both dutch and reg.) I was a Hersey’s user until then. After usung the reg. Guitarrd cocoa, I can’t go back to using Hershey’s. There is a huge difference in taste. Once when making homemade hot fudge, I was out of the reg. cocoa and used my dutch cocoa. It didn’t thicken up at all, but still tasted great. My husband now calls me a cocoa snob.
To the person who would like to know a way to use an alkali to change “regular”cocoa to Dutch cocoa –think about whether you could use boiling water to change a plate of scrambled eggs into hardboiled eggs so you could dye them for Easter. Once you take the first big step you can’t go back.
The articles that I have been reading say that dutch processed chocolate in not as health wise as natural unsweetened cocoa.
I made your chocolate zucchini cake recipe using Dutch processed cocoa and it was fabulous. But even more fabulous was the discovery of the reason my tried and true chocolate birthday cake recipe has not turned out as expected the last few times I made it. I must have been using the wrong cocoa. But the chocolate zucchini cake had that deep chocolate flavor. I recognized it at the first bite and even before from the color. Thanks for the tip and for solving my puzzle!
Hi Mel! I finally realized it was w/ the way I stored the cookies. After 5-7 days they became crumbly. I tried melting the butter & chilling them & I didn’t like the results. I like them room temp butter & bake them right after. They turn out soft. Do you have any ideas how to make them like the Keebler soft & chewy? Any more ideas on how to store them & keep them soft longer? Thanks!
Hi Cherrie – I always freeze my cookies if they will be left out for longer than a day or two. Then they taste fresh out of the freezer and warmed up slightly in the microwave or just at room temperature.
Hi Mel,
Thanks a lot. We do likea deeper chocolate flavor. Another question, how do I make the cookies not crumbly?
Hi Cherrie – have you made those cookies in the past and had them turn out crumbly? Be careful not to overflour the dough (measure by scooping and sweeping the flour) and it should be ok.
Hi Mel, it’s actually the white chocolate chipper cookie recipe that you have here. Is it ok to sub it w/ thw Dutch processed cocoa because of its lavor even w/ using a baking soda? I actually just made my first chocolate cookie chip from scratch last week & I felt so proud of myself. I love to cook & not much to bake 🙁 Your website is really very helpful for people like me who wants to bake but have been having 2nd thoughts.
Thanks for responding right away. I’ve been wanting to bake a chocolate cookie since last week & the only ingredient I haven’t bought is the coco powder. I can’t decide. Help! :0)
Hi Cherrie – ok, that helps. Thanks! Yes, you could use the Dutch-process cocoa for the cookies. Usually it’s more finicky baked goods like cakes that you need to be careful subbing Dutch-process for regular. The Dutch-process will give those cookies a pretty deep, dark cocoa flavor so if you like the chocolate a bit more mild, I’d stick with the recipe and use the natural cocoa powder. Good luck!
Can I sub Dutch Coco for Natural unsweetened for a chocolate cookie recipe?
Cherrie – it really depends on the cookie recipe…without knowing the exact recipe I don’t want to say yes or no. You’ll probably have to experiment. Good luck!
I am a huge mocha fan and trying to create the right type of cocoa powder from scratch. Is anyone aware of a way to “dutch” cocoa powder at home? I have seen multiple people mention that you should add a pinch of baking soda for every 3 tablespoons but I am looking for a way to replicate the Alkali process at home. Anyone have suggestions?
Best explanation Ever! I read so many on line, one after the other, trying to make sense of all this. Your explanation was clear and made sense! Thank you! Found a recipe for Crock Pot Hot Fudge Sundae Cake and it called for both cocoas. I was so confused. Not anymore! thanks to you! on my way to the store to pick up stuff for dinner and special baking cocoa 🙂